Bruschetta ‘Bout It
Travels in Tuscany + Bruschetta for Dinner + A Chianti You Can Count On
It was the summer of 2022 and our family ‘revenge travel’ trip to Italy was back on after being delayed because of an ill-timed bout of COVID. By the time we pulled our clown car of an Audi, stuffed with four adults, one toddler and bags roped onto the roof into the medieval Tuscan village of San Gusmé, we were more than ready to sink into the chair of a tavern for something simple to eat and about a gallon of the local Chianti.
After years of pandemic lock-down in Hong Kong, including not seeing our families for 11 months after the birth of our child, my husband and I were dying for a serious vacation and family time. 2.2 million Americans had the same idea as us that summer, a 20% increase over the pre-pandemic summer of 2019, traveling to Italy in search of la dolce vita - even if it meant braving heat waves, oppressive crowds and the chance of catching COVID from fellow revenge travel seekers.
The apartment where were staying sat in the middle of the stone walled village, population 70. The owners, who also ran the nearby Tenuta di Arceno winery, left a list of suggestions on where to eat in the area. Top of the list was a bruschetteria, a restaurant specializing in toasted bread with toppings, whose cozy tables rested mere feet from our front door.
Tuscany with its rich agricultural heritage is known for its thick cuts of meat like Bistecca alla Fiorentina and pastas made with ragus of wild boar. Tomatoes, cavallo nero, and beans also feature along with frugal uses for stale bread as with ribollita and panzanella. With the heat still emanating from the stone walls, even after the sun dipped low on the horizon, the last thing we wanted was a heavy steak or rib sticking soup. Bruschetta on the other hand, was comfort food made for weary travelers on a blistering hot day.
Alongside some of the expected Tuscan pastas and mains, the menu at Siro & Remino featured nine bruschette meant to be enjoyed as appetizers to share, or as a meal unto themselves. Rich and creamy straciatella (think the oozy interior of a burrata) was paired twice: simply with anchovies, and extra with mortadella and pistachio pesto. Tuscany’s famous cannellini white beans combined with tuna, onion and vinegar, while seasonal grilled mixed vegetables found an umami boost with sun dried tomatoes. The flavor combinations were many but thing they all had in common was the day old, toasted bread that lay beneath, acting as both plate and sponge for the flavors above.
Over four days we ventured out in the mornings to taste wine in cool cellars, tour the winding streets of nearby Siena and hike the surrounding hills before the sun became too oppressive. We’d retreat to the thick stone walls of our apartment for jetlag enhanced naps. When the shadows lengthened, we’d venture out again, never very far. We were together, and sharing delicious things on toasted bread always felt just right.
I am happy to not be revenge traveling this summer. Warm temperatures at the beach are pleasant enough for late dinners outdoors. I don’t mind simmering a pot of beans in the morning while the marine layer clings to the coast and a sweatshirt keeps the damp chill off my arms. The sun will be out soon enough. By then I will be out of the kitchen, harvesting greens and herbs from the garden to sauté briefly with garlic and top with the morning’s beans on a thick slice of grilled sourdough. Opening a bottle of Chianti as the sun dips down on the ocean and the moment is far from revenge and something closer to grace.
Recipe…
Tuscan White Bean and Kale Bruschetta
Cooking cannellini beans is not difficult particularly if you are using fresher, high quality dried beans. You can put a pot on in the morning when you are getting ready for work and it will be cooked before you head out the door. Just turn off the heat and reheat when you come home for an extra quick dinner. Double the batch of beans below and freeze half in the cooking liquid for future bean pastas or thick bean soups.
Serves: 4 as a vegetarian main dish or more as an appetizer or part of a bruschetta spread
Time: 2 – 3 hours total, 30 min active
Beans
½ lb. dried cannellini beans (like Rancho Gordo’s Marcella Bean)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed with the flat side of a knife
1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves plus more for serving
2 T. olive oil
1 ¼ tsp. fine sea salt
Kale
1 bunch lacinato, curly kale or Swiss chard, stems removed
2 T. olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
Salt
Pepper
Bruschetta
½ lb. day old country loaf
Extra Virgin Olive oil
Garlic clove
Flaky sea salt
Parmesan cheese, grated or in ribbons (optional)
Rinse beans and pick over for debris. Add to a medium pot and cover with cold water by 1 – 2 inches. Bring to a full boil with lid off. Continue to boil for 15 minutes. While boiling add 2 cloves garlic and 1 tsp. thyme leaves. After 15 minutes reduce heat to medium-low. Stir in 2 T. olive oil and 1 ¼ tsp. sea salt. Continue to simmer for 1 – 3 hours until beans are just tender and cooked through but not falling apart (mine took about 1 ½ hours total). Check during cooking at add boiling water if necessary to ensure beans are covered by at least ½ inch of liquid. Use immediately or let beans cool in their liquid and store for a later use.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Slice country loaf into 1 inch pieces. Layout on a baking tray and brush each slice with olive oil. Toast for 15 – 20 minutes, flipping half way through, until lightly toasted on both sides. Alternatively, grill bread outdoors just before serving.
While bread is toasting, layer kale leaves and slice crosswise to shred. Heat a large saute pan over medium high heat with 1 1/2 T. olive oil. Once very hot but before oil burns, add kale with a pinch of salt and a couple cranks of the pepper mill. Sauté for several minutes until kale is wilted and tender. This time will vary depending on the tenderness of the greens. When wilted, reduce heat to medium and push greens to one side of the pan. Add remaining ½ T. olive oil and garlic clove. Let garlic cook in oil for 1- 2 minutes until softened then toss in with the greens. Turn off heat and set aside until ready to assemble.
To assemble bruschetta, rub each slice of toasted bread with a raw garlic clove. If beans are in a lot of liquid, strain off liquid and reserve. If still warm, in a medium bowl add ½ cup of liquid back in with the beans, 2 T. extra virgin olive oil and a couple of pinches of flaky sea salt. Arrange toasts on plates or one large platter. Top each with a portion of beans then pile some of the shredded kale on top. If using, top with parmesan cheese. Scatter extra thyme leaves and drizzle of olive oil over the top. Serve immediately.
If you are looking for some other recipes, light on the heat and using stale bread, try one of these…
To Drink…
Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico DOCG Tuscany, Italy 2022
Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico DOCG Tuscany, Italy 2022
Chianti is one of those regions that exports a lot but quality varies so widely, it can be hard to find that go-to bottle that will satisfy every time. One tip is to look for wine that is specifically Chianti Classico DOCG. The DOCG region of Chianti is broad and while Classico is a sub-zone that denotes higher quality grapes. The community of Arceno where the winery and village sit today, is mentioned in historical documents as far back as 1000 C.E. In 1929, the aristocratic Piccolomini family built the estate and buildings that are still in use by the winery today. Today, Tenuta di Arceno is owned by California wine luminaries Jess Jackson and Barbara Banke (of Jackson Family Wines) ensuring a high quality of product and fairly wide distribution of product.
We enjoyed a lovely tasting at the winery looking out through picture windows to the rolling hills of the surrounding vineyards. Even with strong air conditioning in the winery, the Riservas felt a bit too robust for the weather outside. We preferred to take those home to enjoy in cooler temps with heartier food. Their Chianti Classico hit the sweet spot of plummy fruit with earthy notes and balanced acidity, good for drinking now, preferably after the sun sets while nibbling on bruschetta.
For another option, Felsina is just down the road from Tenuta di Arceno and offers a lively, easy drinking Chianti Classico that will take you through summer barbecues and into fall.
Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico from $30.99 at Total Wine before discounts, $37.99 at Wine.com, or $30 direct from the winery
Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico 2022 from $32.97 at Wine.com
One of your best! 👏
Thanks Tanya 😊