Three Perfect Days in Sonoma

A guide to the best hiking, restaurants, shopping, cycling and yes... wine

If I have a spiritual home, it might be Sonoma.

I was not born there, but for the many years I lived outside of the Golden State, if I said I was going “home” for a visit, what I usually meant was Sonoma. Downtown Sonoma is only a thirty-minute drive from downtown Napa, but when it comes to Northern California wine country, they are worlds away in temperament. Both are storied wine regions, both benefit from proximity to the freshest produce, and either one will seduce you with the vibrant green of trellised vines climbing up the slopes of the surrounding hills. However, in the past decades where Napa has tilted more to wine trains and $150 tasting room fees, Sonoma has largely retained the quaint feel of a lived-in town, albeit one that is home to some of the best food and wine in the United States.

I have my grandfather to thank for this adopted home. He first moved to Sonoma with my grandmother nearly forty years ago. They loved horses and the dry grasses, gnarled oak trees and rolling hills of California’s historic wine region, reminded them of riding in the Idaho countryside of their childhood.

With my grandfather, "Big Paul”, at Sebastiani Winery

For over two decades, Sonoma has been my home for family Christmas, weekend getaways, or a comfortable place to stay on work trips to the Bay Area. I have also been lucky to live there for longer stints, first as a college student for a summer of working in a luxury hotel, and later with my husband and our one-year-old in tow. It was under my grandfather’s fig tree and around the ponds of Sonoma Plaza that our son went from tentative first steps to wobbly toddler sprints chasing startled ducks.

At over twice the size of Napa County, Sonoma County has something for every type of wine country tourist. It is in the cool wild coasts of Sonoma where you find the some of the best Pinot Noir and warmer reaches of Alexander Valley where some of the finest old vine Zinfandel thrives. You can hike through vineyards and up mountains before your tasting appointments or opt for total relaxation at a natural hot springs-fed spa.

I will write many guides to Sonoma. This is a fitting one to begin. Far from exhaustive, this is simply a way to get started. Save this itinerary, share it. Get some inspiration for your next wine country trip. Then go.

Day One: Sonoma Plaza, Lay of the Land

Drop your bags at the hotel and head to Sonoma Plaza, the square of park from which all action in Sonoma radiates. Several wineries offer tasting rooms right on the Plaza making it easy to dive into that first glass. Auteur Wines specializes in Burgundy-style Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from vineyards across Sonoma County. Take a seat on the back patio in nice weather, or on cold days, get cozy inside their charming craftsman house.

Other wineries of note in the Plaza: Walt Wines and Three Sticks Wines

Lunch at El Dorado Kitchen is civilized affair. Request a table on the patio when weather allows and get a nice base in your stomach with a brown rice tuna poke bowl or fried chicken sandwich. Don’t skip the truffle fries.

Stretch your legs and digest while you tour the shops. Pop into Sign of the Bear for every kitchen accessory you didn’t know you need from olive wood trays to spatulas in the shape of guitars. Chateau Sonoma is your spot for artfully curated, French-inspired homeware. Thimble-sized apero glasses, the softest linen napkins, and candles studded with fresh lavender – just a few of the things that might end up coming home in your hand-woven market basket. If you forgot to pack a book, do not fear. Reader’s Books is the kind of curated shop where you can pick up a beach read as easily as the newest Doris Kearns Goodwin bio. They also stock an impressive selection of food and wine writing.

Ease into the holiday with a massage. The Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn is a top-rated spa for good reason. Natural mineral springs feed five different pools allowing guests to “take in the waters” in the style of Roman baths. (Fun fact: I worked at this spa during a summer in college!) Note that the facilities are co-ed, so swimsuits are most definitely required. For those who like the spa a bit more low-key but still enjoy a proficient massage, check out the charming MacArthur Place Hotel where all-day pool access comes with any treatment.

Head to dinner at Della Santina early and saddle up to the bar at the next door Enoteca. An impressive variety of Italian and Californian wines line the walls. Ask the bartender for a favorite, and you won’t be disappointed. At the restaurant, on most days you will be greeted Rob, the owner, a friendly bear of a man. Specials are always a good bet for seasonal produce as is the pesto linguine.

Bonus: Tuesday night Farmer’s Market

Every Tuesday evening from May to September, the park at Sonoma Plaza transforms into a town party. You can peruse tables heaped with craggy carrots and bushy collards plus baskets of blackberries and thumb sizes plums. You can do this all with a local microbrew in hand while listening to tunes from a live band. Be like a local and bring a lawn chair or a blanket to set up on the grass and enjoy a picnic spread of grilled oysters, vegetarian pad thai, or wood-fired pizza. Or just bring your dancing shoes.

Day 2: Bikes and Bottles on the Historic East Side

Grab a coffee and a scone at the recently opened Monday Bakery then head down 1^st Street West to the Sonoma Overlook trail. A great hike for all levels, this easy hour up and back takes you through stands of oak trees to a panoramic view of the valley. Keep your eyes out for wildlife and you might be rewarded with a family of deer scampering through the trees.

If your legs still have energy, rent a bike from Wine Country Cyclery. They have a wide range of options including kid trailers if you have little ones in tow.

From here, you can head to the east end of the valley for a step back in time to the historical roots of winemaking in Sonoma. The family’s adobe home at Gundlach Bundschu burnt down in the 2017 wildfires, but the historic stone winery and barn were saved. It is worth taking a trip to this picturesque vineyard just to marvel at the survival of this estate, family-owned since it was established in 1848. Book a tasting in advance or buy a bottle of their Chardonnay and grab picnic table outside to enjoy the view.

Continue your ride out the back exit of the vineyard and onto Lovall Valley Road. Wind your way over to Sonoma’s Best to pick up a Bacon Grilled Cheese or a charcuterie platter for a picnic. Back on the bike, power over to Bartholomew Estate Winery. Book a tasting or buy a bottle to go with your lunch sitting outside at a table in their public park, no tasting fee required. If you are just picking up a bottle, ask for their limited production Roussanne, a Rhone-style white that is picnic perfect. (For those who prefer hiking to biking, the hiking trail through their park is one of my favorites in the Valley.)

Together, Bartholomew Estate and next-door neighbor Buena Vista Winery form the early history of premium wine making in Sonoma. Even though the two wineries share a fence line, there is no short cut through, so after you are done with lunch it is back on the bike for a little more exercise under giant eucalyptus trees until you wind your way over to Buena Vista. Founded in 1857 by the colorful Hungarian immigrant, Agoston Haraszthy, the original winery at Buena Vista is a California Historic Landmark. Today it is a great place to step back in time and imagine a world before the “Count of Buena Vista” brought 150,000 vines from Europe back to California, setting in motion what would become one of the most lauded wine regions in the world.

Before you return the bike, keep up the history lesson with a tour of the Mission San Francisco Solano, or the Sonoma Mission, as most call it. Built in 1823, this was the twenty-first and last of the California missions built by the Catholic Franciscans, and the only one built after Mexico gained independence from Spain. Today it is part of the Sonoma State Historic Park. Though not an active church, you can tour the restored original church as well as soldiers’ barracks.

Profiteroles at Girl and the Fig, Sonoma

For dinner, it’s back to the town square for dinner at The Girl and the Fig. This mainstay of California-French dining is a must eat for most visitors. Recently sold by the original owner to her long-time head chef, John Toulze has kept classics like the steak tartare and fig infused cocktails, while freshening things up a bit. A dish of seared scallops and corn on a recent visit hit all the right notes of early summer on a plate.

Day Three: Call of the Wild West

Now is about the time in this trip where your stomach may be calling for some chilaquiles to soak up all that wine you have been tasting. With immigrants as the backbone of the agricultural force in the wine industry, it is no surprise that the Mexican food here is very good. If you are in Sonoma on a Friday through Sunday, head west toward Boyes Hot Springs. There, you have the good luck to catch El Molino for breakfast chilaquiles from 9am on the weekends, or from 11am any day for the best homemade tamales and enchiladas in the valley.

Tamales at El Molino Central, Sonoma

Get your coffee to go across the street at the Barking Dog Coffee Roasters then head over to Jack London State Historic Park. Work up an appetite touring the remains of Beauty Ranch, the property where Jack London lived and wrote some of his most famous works. For those with strong legs, explore the 29 miles of backcountry trails that weave through the park, taking in redwoods, oak and meadows of wildflowers.

If you are feeling a bit thirsty after all that walking, good news is that Benziger Family Winery is right next door. A pioneer in biodynamic farming, a visit to their tasting room comes complete with an education on sustainable vineyard practices. For a taste of something a little different, pop over to Benziger’s sister winery, Imagery. Now with the second generation at the helm, winemaker Jamie Benziger has been carrying on the family legacy at Imagery crafting wines made from less common California varietals. Look for their Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Viognier to get a taste of the range, all packaged with unique specially commissioned artwork gracing the labels.

If an early dinner is in the cards, some of the best Nepalese food I’ve had outside of Nepal can be found in the cozy, wood paneled dining room of the Yeti Restaurant in Glen Ellen. Vegetarian samosas and Bindi Masala made with Sonoma garden okra are a veggie lover’s dream and even your gluten free friends will be will taken care of with a large selection of curries plus homemade lentil papadums.

With a belly as round as a momo, you might be in need of a nightcap to help you digest, perhaps something other than wine. HopMonk Tavern is the place to go for craft beers and live music. With eighteen rotating tap handles, you can take your pick from regional favorites like Lagunitas and Anderson Valley to Hopmonk’s own Hefewiezen or IPA - the perfect way to unwind at the end of a perfect three days in Sonoma.

Where to Stay

Luxury

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn: The OG of luxury hotels in Sonoma. On the west side of town, what it lacks in close proximity to the Sonoma Plaza it makes up for with a world-class spa, and all the bells and whistles of an award-winning resort.

MacArthur Place: Twice sold and renovated in the last two decades, rooms at MacArthur on a recent visit were chic and modern while retaining the charming exterior of cottages linked by flower lined paths. The restaurant is better than it needs to be and the bar mixes a mean margarita.

Value

Sonoma Valley Inn (Best Western): By far the best value given its location just off the Plaza. Friends report comfortable rooms, though better to skip the in-house breakfast and walk a block to breakfast at Sunflower Caffé.

El Pueblo Inn: The go-to budget accommodation for our family for Christmases. At the intersection of two of the main roads in town, it is your jumping off point for exploring in either direction. It also has the advantage of being next door to Sweet Pea Bake Shop, home of the best croissants and gluten-free scones around.

Want all these spots in one easy list? Check out my Google Map List here.

Do you have a favorite part of Sonoma? Is there a wine region you would like to see me cover? Leave a comment and let me know.